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Above, Al Bullman takes in
a shot of an old farm near Hwy. 209 between Waynesville, NC and Hot
Springs, NC. Hwy. 209 is a lightly traveled, mountainous byway that,
IMHO, is one of the finest rides in western North Carolina. There is
spectacular mountain views, old farms, bike-friendly residents, and
some fine eatin' spots along the way.
This particular loop ride
covered a distance of about 145 miles, starting in Hendersonville, NC.
From there, we cut up through Pisgah National Forest on Hwy. 276 out
of Brevard, NC, riding up and across the Pisgah Ledge at the Blue Ridge
Parkway. We continued down the other side of the mountain and on into
Waynesville. Waynesville is a pretty little mountain town, with a thriving
Main Street lined with trees and some interesting sculpture. From Waynesville,
we rode down by Lake Junaluska and soon picked up Hwy. 209. As soon
as you cross over bustling I-40, the pace slows and the ride enters
the good stuff - mile after mile of swooping, twisting mountain roads,
lined by dense forests intersperced with some beautiful old farmland.
Once in Hot Springs, we picked up Hwy. 25 and rode through the little
old mill town by the French Broad River, Marshall, NC, before picking
up the old Hwy. 25 along the River to Asheville and then back home on
Hwy. 191 through the sprawling farmlands of the Mills River valley.
Unlike some previous pages elsewhere on this site, I'm going to pile
in the photos on a single page - most folks have high speed connections
now, and it's a lot easier to build for those. It's also a lot easier
to follow as a reader. Enjoy!
BTW, one thing that I've
learned to do, first thing, during these roadside photo ops, is to check
carefully for aggressive dogs before I turn off the bike - there's nothing
like being 15 feet from your ride when you spot a fast-approaching pit
bull to get the ol' blood going!

Double purpose for stopping
here - we wanted to enjoy the spectacular views of Cold Mountain and
we wanted to take a few minutes in the early morning sun to warm up
a bit. Cold Mtn. is inside the Shining Rock Wilderness area, and yes,
it's the same Cold Mountain that was the title peak for the famous book
by Charles Frazier. Shining Rock offers up some terrific (and very popular)
backpacking and hiking opportunities. Most people access the Wilderness
from the Parkway, but I prefer to head over to the old Boy Scout camp
near Sunburst to climb up towards Cold Mountain and the Shining Rock
Ledge. The steep path up from the Boy Scout camp hits the ridge at Deep
Gap, the low point on the ridge to the left of Cold Mtn. The Shining
Rock outcropping, a massive ledge of snowy white quartz, lies further
south along the ridge, near the left side of the photo. It's all good
wild country. This was shot at the Cold Mountain overlook on the Blue
Ridge Parkway, next to the point where Hwy. 276 passes beneath the Parkway.
Incidentally, that's Al's 2008 Ninja 250 on the right, and my little
2008 retro-Ninja 500 on the left.

The old barn in the top photo, close up.

This is where Al Shaver and
I figured out that we'd missed the turn that would have kept us on Hwy.
209 - it's easy to miss. However, it's all good riding, so we just turned
and headed back. Watch for a cut-off a few miles south of I-40 with
a small general store on the corner. Turn right there and you're on
the way to Hot Springs. Don't turn - and you'll run out of pavement
in just a few miles.

Mountain farm about 1 mile
from pavement's end after we missed the turn on Hwy. 209 - there is
just too much good scenery to be paying attention to road signs!

Roadside by 209 north of I-40,
looking towards the Tennessee line on the horizon.

Twisties on a 209 mountaintop
- no traffic to speak of, a warm, sunny day on the Ninja. Damn, that's
nice!

Old homestead near Spring
Creek along Hwy. 209 south of Hot Springs, NC.

Better than the Dragon? IMHO,
yep!

Luck, NC, right up the road on Hwy. 209 from Trust, NC. It's just a
pretty little spot in the road, an old store, now closed, that I can't
resist stopping by each time that I ride to Hot Springs.

Cobwebs, and an old spark plug cleaner station sign point to the bygone
days when the local general store offered most of what you needed to
survive life in simpler times.

I have no idea how the little community came by its name, or for that
matter, how Trust gained its moniker. It's a good name though and seems
to have held up well over the years. Though the store is now closed,
the small community is still a beautiful little sprinkling of farms
and old homes that is worth taking a few extra minutes to enjoy.

A small bell mounted outside the old store in Luck.

A retired wheelbarrow lazing the autumn days away by Spring Creek in
Luck, NC.

Cobwebs and memories in Luck, NC.

Lessee here... 31 cents a gallon gas - that was even before I started
driving. Back in the days when you could buy a 16 oz. Dixie Cola for
3 cents, or 5 cents if you took the bottle with you. A six ounce Coke,
pulled out of the chilled water cooler, would set you back 6 cents,
but hands down, it was the best soft drink around then. 10 cents would
get you 10 Mint Julep and 10 Banana Split chewy candies, and a nickle
would nab you a double Reeses Cup - still my favorite candy bar.

Further north on Hwy. 209, a few miles south of Bluff Mtn. we passed
this old barn, one of my favorite photographic subjects when riding.
Trust, NC. Another small community by Spring Creek, along Hwy. 209 south
of Hot Springs, NC. This little store has a great, friendly little country
restaurant inside, as well as a good supply of maps and munchies. It's
a popular lunch spot for passing bikers. Just below the store, Hwy.
63 turns east to cross Doggett Mtn. on the way to Canto and Leicester
(pronounced "Lester" by locals.) That's a great ride in itself,
but I'm saving it for another page. We'll head on to the north and Hot
Springs for now. If you have time, stop by and enjoy a burger while
in Trust.

Autumn decorations at the
Spring Creek store in Trust, NC.

Rocking chairs, good food,
and friendly service - can't beat that on a long ride!

One more shot from Trust...

Taking a short break by 209, I explored the Rocky Bluff campground,
just down the hill from the highway. Even at the peak of leaf season,
when most campgrounds were packed, this little jewel was virtually empty.
I think that the host was the only occupant. I'm not a fan of campgrounds,
but this one is pretty nice.

A peaceful mountain cove below 209 a few miles south of Hot Springs.
I rarely pass by without grabbing a shot of this pastoral beauty - I
need to get one of it with a blanket of snow to complete my "4
Seasons" collection.

Another view of the cove, through the colors of autumn.

Al rides the twisties above Spring Creek a few miles south of Hot Springs.
One thing to watch for on Hwy. 209 is the constant presence of gravel
and stone that collects in many turns. It's a fun road, but it deserves,
and sometimes demands, respect. A lot of cyclists also use this road,
riding from Leicester to Hot Springs (one hell of a tough ride - I've
done it!), so use caution not to out-ride your sight distance. A cyclist
was killed this year on the Parkway by a rider that overrode his abilities
and slammed into the cyclist while speeding through a turn. Have fun,
but give 'em room!

Overlook by the twisties on Hwy. 209 south of Hot Springs, NC.

Al poses on his lil Ninja by Hwy. 209. The little mountain cove that
is in one of the photos above lies in the valley beyond the rail fence.
Spring Creek runs through the gorge below as it hurries down the valley
towards the French Broad River at Hot Springs.

Parked by the railroad in
Hot Springs. This was once a major entryway into the mountains from
Tennessee, following the French Broad River valley to Asheville and
then points south.

A good burger joint is a great
thing to discover, and I really like this one at the entrance to the
Hot Springs campground in Hot Springs. It's small and old, but its also
clean and the food is terrific! Pizza, burgers, dogs, subs, etc. - load
it up and hit the road! This campground hosts some major bike rallies
during the year, and Hot Springs is rivaling the better known Dragon
as a biker's destination now. How twisty is Hwy. 209? Twice now, I've
heard Harley riders asking if there is a different road that they can
take back to the south towards Waynesville or Cherokee to avoid having
the muscle their heavy mounts over the road again. By the way, the North
Carolina HPD sometimes ride Harleys on patrol on 209, but it's a friendly
patrol.

The campgrounds at Hot Springs,
site of several bike rallies each year. I've never stayed there - don't
usually care for campgrounds, but I've heard that this is better than
most. At least you'd have some good food nearby...

The French Broad River as
it passes by the Hot Springs Campground in Hot Springs. Upriver is Marshall,
Asheville, Brevard and Rosman. The river starts out as a trickle of
water way up on the Pisgah Ledge below the Devils Courthouse, and picks
up a series of smaller streams as it works its way into Tennessee, running
into Lake Douglas not far west of the Tennessee line. The stretch of
the river between Hot Springs and Marshall provide some fun whitewater
during the summer months, especially in the years with good rainfall.
There are quite a few whitewater outfitters scattered here and there
along the course of the river's passage. There is also a whitewater
park on the river by old Hwy. 25 north of Asheville.

Same river mountainside, two
weeks later. The color was really spectacular this year, one of the
best in decades. At one time, the French Broad was so polluted that
it was dangerous to swim in, and eating the few fish that could be gleaned
from it was simply suicidal. Many towns in the drainage 'straight-piped'
sewage directly into the river without any kind of treatment. Legislation,
specifically the Clean Water Act, made possible the river that thousands
enjoy today, complete with trout and some lunker muskies. It's a different
stream now, thanks to a lot of hard work from a lot of really dedicated
and determined people.

Main Street in Hot Springs,
NC. This tiny waypoint along the Appalachian Trail is a welcome sight
to those who brave the 2,000 mile + journey from Springer Mtn. in Georgia
to Mt. Katadhin in Maine. A full complement of facilities can be found
here for backpackers or bikers - showers, rooms, campsites, good food
and lots of camaraderie. There is a little sidewalk cafe across the
tracks in this shot - look closely and you will see diners beneath the
awning out front. There is some good tucker in there - big helpings,
cold beer, good service. In warmer months, the place will be crowded
and rockin' with bikers, hikers, hippies, and citizens, all enjoying
a lazy day in a friendly town.
Alrightee... I'm gonna cut
the page at this point and pick up the remainder of the report on another
- there is still a lot of pix to go and I'd like to put in some optional
rides that split off of the usual loop.
Stay tuned!
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