The campsite was even better than I had expected. It was recommended to me by one of the rangers at the Grant Village backcountry office, and he had mentioned that it probably had a good supply of firewood. He was right.

I usually spend an hour or so when I first arrive at a campsite, checking out the surrounding area, and deciding where to put the tent, hang the pack, etc. I also check carefully for fresh bear sign, and was relieved to find none at this site. It was very clean, a common characteristic in the Yellowstone backcountry (at least when you're away from the big outfitter camps that are near the Park boundaries.) On this day, with dark rapidly approaching and a big storm threatening, I wasted little time in getting the tent pitched. I chose a spot about 250 feet or so from the cooking area, closer than I like, but still far enough away that I felt pretty secure. A lot of folks recommend pitching your tent close to a good climbing tree, but I've never felt that it would do a lot of good in most circumstances, especially if you're traveling solo. I realize that there have been instances where a person has avoided injury by seeking shelter in a tree (read Night of the Grizzlies, by Jack Olsen), but my biggest concern is having a bear enter the tent, and to me, the best defense against that is to have a clean camp and spotless gear.

From my journal, written two days earlier while staying at Shoshone Lake at site #8R3, not far from the ranger's backcountry residence:
"Heart Lake/Shoshone Lake comparison: Heart Lake is wilder and more intense, at least on the eastern shore. Griz sign everywhere there. Both hikes go for miles through pine forest with little to see. Heart is terrific from Witch Creek to Heart River - about 6 1/2 miles. Shoshone is good in places - all of DeLacy Creek is spectacular, and the geyser basin area is really beautiful too. Staying at the geyser basin during the elk rut is something that I'll never forget, especially the sight and sound of the wolves chasing the elk cow into the lake at sunset. Heart Lake has the sunsets over Mt. Sheridan, with loons singing harmony as the sun drops out of sight. Saw a lot of moose when I stayed at Heart Lake, especially right around the campsite (8J6) - none here so far. There might be as much bird life at Shoshone Lake, but you can't hear them as easily over the roar of the wind. It only lets up here for a little while at night. Inescapable during the day. Heart Lake was very peaceful - of course that was in the middle of August. This is about a month later in the season. Overall, I prefer Heart Lake. I'll go back there again, but I'm not sure that I'll be back here again. Gonna check out the western shore of Heart Lake and Mt. Sheridan as soon as I get out of here."

Of course, that was written about 12 hours before I had the encounter with the Griz, a few miles further east. Now, it's apples and oranges. Shoshone, in retrospect, has its own appeal, not the least of which is the sound and fury of the rut in the vicinity of the geyser basin. Going toe to toe with the Griz certainly added a huge dollop of Wild to the experience, but it's something that I hope to only experience once in this lifetime.

 

Back to Heart Lake 2005

Heart Lake 2003 - a trip to the eastern shore