The last time I dropped into the Heart Lake region in 2003, I was headed for the eastern shore, staying near the outlet of the Heart River at campsite 8J6. That trip was made in mid-August, under very hot and sunny conditions.
This however, was mid-September, and snow had already blanketed the peaks of the Red Mountains, including Mt. Sheridan. Rain and snow squalls swept the ridges as I hurried along the trail, hoping to make it to camp and get set up for the evening before the predicted storm moved in.
Even though I've been to Heart Lake before, the view from the top of Paycheck Pass at the head of the Witch Creek drainage still takes my breath away. There is an immense spread of wild country reaching to the horizon in every direction, with the jewel of Heart Lake being the centerpiece of the wild tableau. The thermal basin extends from the top of the drainage to a point near the turnoff to Mt. Sheridan on the western shore of the Lake. It's illegal (and simply stupid) to enter any of the hot springs anywhere in Yellowstone National Park. However, it is legal to soak in the streams below the springs. You've got to use some common sense and bear in mind that some of the springs pour out a hell of a lot of scalding water, so it pays to only enter streams with a sufficient flow of water to dilute the hot stuff. I spotted the only other hiker that I'd see on this day not far from the bottom of the hill, kicked back in a warm stretch of the creek near the bottom of the valley, enjoying the heat while snow flurries filled the air.